. Jump to Latest Follow 1 - 5 of 5 Posts. J. Joker47885 · Registered. Joined Jul 22, 2018 · 2 Posts . Discussion Starter · #1 · Jul 22, 2018. Driving home tonight and notice my lights was getting dim.. So, I popped the hood and saw that the black alternator ground wire was hanging on by a thread and sparking a bit. I shut it down and could tell the wire was melted a bit which is probably why it was hanging on by a thread. So I cut the wire back a bit and put a new connector end on it and put back on the alternator Hey Man, I'm not sure but it sounds like you have a hot wire going straight to ground somewhere. Check all the main hot wires, especially around the starter. If your putting a 130amp alt. you need to put some bigger wire off the alternator to the battery and add on your old stuff to a junction block coming from the battery Starter motor only cranks a couple times before it struggles and gives up. The ground wire off the alternator keeps smoking and melting. I've replaced it several times. Now it's a 10 gage wire, grounded to the wheelhouse like the manual says. A friend took a look and said my battery ground wire was all wrong
. #4. If the alternator wire is melting during starting the gound between the starter and the negative cable of the battery is bad electrically (corrosion/high resistance), no matter whether the bolt is tight or not. T 3. Positive battery cable has no nicks grounding to chassis anywhere. 4. wires under dash are good. 5. wires under hood are good, except: 10 gauge bat wire off of HEI had melt mark where it rubbed against braided factory ground wire that runs from valve cover bolt to firewall. (that ground may have been hot). This HEI wire has an inline fuse. 6 If the wire is melted, there must be a short in the wire otherwise the fusible link should have blown (should be easy to spot) its only about 2 feet long and goes right from the alternator behind the battery to the relay. Or your alternator is fried and it got hot melting the terminal off, but I would think that the wire would not look burned
But over time, your alternator ground cable is going to start to wear down on you, and eventually, you'll have to replace it as a result. When the alternator ground cable wears down, it'll become frayed and stop working as well as it should. This will lead to some bad alternator ground symptoms starting to show their ugly faces Once a wire gets hot, the heat can travel along the wire until it gets to an electrical connection, such as a plug in a wall socket. Once the connections in the plug get too hot, they melt and expose bare wires. These ultimately cause a short circuit, which produces more heat and melts the plug connection. Advertisement
.facebook.com/GhostlyrichTwitter: https://twitter.com/ghostlyrichMike Singers website: http://singeralternators... The wire underneath instead of being silver and nicely twisted was gray, slightly brown with a loose twist. I am thinking the wire probably got hot a few times from the butt connections being crappy. I am planning on removing the regulator, cleaning up all the connections and the ground there
The terminal became loose and sparked. Sparks raise the temperature so the resistance increases so it sparks more & gets hot enough to melt the lead ( ~ 700 deg ) You can buy a lot of arc welding sets that will weld steel which run off a car battery. SO you might get by with cleaning the battery & wire really well then drilling a new hole or filing to old one enough to get purchase with a nut. Uhh, a missing ground wire does not tell the VR to charge. If the alternator D- isn't grounded, the alternator CANNOT charge, you don't have a complete circuit between the output diodes, the battery and ground. What that looks like to me is that the ground wire contacted the B+ terminal somehow, shorting it out That said, now when I start the car it runs smoothly, but in less than a minute the wire from the alternator to the voltage regulator heats up to the point that it is melting. I've since replaced the melted wire, but I'm hesitant to just start the car because I don't know what caused the problem in the first place
The first time it happened I thought it was a battery issue, but discovered that the positive terminal on the alternator had fused/melted over time. I ended up pulling a used post/bracket from a junk yard and mounted that without changing out the alternator. I also spliced the wires (turns out there's 2) where they had been corroded/burned. It and a red 16g wire to the voltage regulator on one terminal and the 10g to the battery and a 12g to the fuse box on the other terminal on the horn relay. All other wires are fine, just the one to the alternator burned, it seemed to be melting from the alternator toward the horn relay or their was more damage to the alternator side of the wire Alternator quit charging found rear post completely melted in two. Replaced alt and wire end that connects to post. Dash - Answered by a verified Ford Mechanic. Also check to see if there is battery voltage at the brown wire at the alternator as well as the black/orange and the green/red I have the typical 3 wire alternator and the two wire molded harness, pretty simple to hook up. The third wire is the problem. The black w/red stripe. This wire gets hot and melts. I had it connected to the stator on the alternator and have not had any problems. Had to re-wire it and the new wire melted
My Alternator died the other day. During replacement I noticed a melted wire. The 12V positive sense wire melted. This is an always on hot wire. The melted w.. Burned wire, barely hanging on for life and bolt was melted so badly it actually just broke right off. So I pulled the alternator out (which is a pain on this year model) and took a look. No damage other than the bolt that holds the terminal on, but the bolt is connected to the rectifier so there wasnt much I could do Do The Big 3 wiring upgrade. New feed of good size, 2-4 ga, from the alternator to the battery fuse. New ground to the block and frame and I run an extra ground to the alternator itself. All big gauge wire
Subaru 1999 main ground wire is melting the wire thru the system. Mechanic's Assistant: The Subaru Mechanic will know what to do about your wire. Do you have any other details that could be helpful? Battery alternator and fuses are pulled out and it still melting the wires. Mechanic's Assistant: Is there anything else the Subaru Mechanic should know before I connect you Sounds like a wire is shorted to ground. You need to trace the wire, even open up the harness, and find the bad spot. Who knows what other wires are now melted to each other. You may have burned up the new alt. I would not start the truck until you have checked the whole length of the melted wires
What would cause an alternator to melt? There is a stock ground wire between the voltage regulator and the E (earth = ground in the US) terminal of the alternator. If this melts it usually means that the ground strap between your engine and the frame is missing or has a bad connection. That can also explain why you are having trouble starting Wires will melt because of a poor connection. Make sure you have the proper size ring terminal, use a wire brush to clean the alternator stud and nut. If you need to, use some copper washers underneath the ring terminal to help it seat properly, the factory connector is small and tabbed so that it will fit inside the plastic insulator Jul 5, 2004. #2. I had an alternator that shorted out internally. The post for the main power connection was a dead short to the case on the alternator. Take a voltage meter and set it to continuity and then check between the post and the case. You should not have anything there. Then re-connect your wire if OK The yellow wire comes off the alternator and is spliced to go to the voltage regulator and to connector C-7 under the dash. From C-7, the yellow wire goes to Electric Fuel Pump Cut Relay #1. Conspicuously absent from this circuit is a fuse. The relays are below the dash on the passenger side near the fuse box
What are the possible reasons why my 1/0 gauge Alternator Wire (attached from alternator to factory fuse distribution panel on top of battery) would be melting? The wire is a Knu-Konceptz 1/0 and the red insulation and black flex loom is melting near the end attached to the fused distribution panel Melted ground wire? discussion in the John Deere forum at Yesterday's Tractors This alt has a large black wire w orange stripe to the post it has battery voltage . on the connector it has orange w blue stripe which has batt voltage it has white with black stripe which come out of connector and goes back into alt via another pigtail it shows zero key on 6.35 running and it has a green with a red stripe that shows 1.35 v key on and 12.16 running The alternator has a black ground wire, an orange wire running to the voltage regulator, and a red to the solenoid. Sometimes enough to melt or catch fire. 1968, hardtop, 289, C4, seafoam green. 1966, hardtop, 289, original 3 speed, on the road and fun to drive. 1968, hardtop, 200, 3 speed, in work
The other side should be a ground. With the alternator working, BOTH sides should read 12volts to body ground (which is why the light goes out with the engine running, the ground becomes a hot and with two hots there is no circuit) The charging wire, the one that establishes a charging field, is the Yellow and Green wire on the alternator If your electrical system is searching for a ground it will take the path of least resistance, which would be a loose connection at the battery, the alt. wouldn't burn off the neg. post because it is grounded twice, if the alt lost it's ground or part of it's ground you would have noticed a voltage drop like 13.5 or 12.8 unlike the norm 14.2 volts
THe ground is on the driver side of the alternator (back side whatever) has a small 8mm bolt that holds the cable on. You can run your own ground cable from that point using some 8 gauge wire to any bolt that goes into the chassis on the passenger side. One thing you may want to do is pull the alternator and have it checked for proper voltage alternator ground stereo ground stereo issues wiring. Jump to Latest Follow 1 - 8 of 8 Posts The wire that melted is the wire that is under sized or overloaded, don't worry about the grounds right now. Where does your amplifier power connect to, at the battery? Please tell me you have an appropriate fuse as close as possible to that connection Replace the box. Get a 49 #4 battery cable from parts supply house. The wire will have eyelets on each end. Use one eyelet and remove the other. Replace the missing end with one with a smaller hole; I found one at tractor supply. Next remove part of the stock so the end will fit the new fuse box Overheated alternator output wire - check the red wire on the alternator for melted or blistering insulation. You will need to solder a new terminal on or in extreme cases run a new wire (#8) from alternator to starter. Frayed worn alternator ground wire (see picture below)
The engineers sized the wires to handle every possibility. If you replaced that output wire going back to the battery, you eliminated the fuse link wire, and you removed that circuit's protection. If the right two diodes were to short, you'd have a direct short to ground, a melted output wire, and likely a major car fire Aug 14, 2010. #3. Re: Melted positive Battery Terminal. It got hot because of the voltage drop caused by the bad connection at the battery. Because of the voltage drop, more current was flowing through the connection. Ditch the wing nuts and get the stainless steel locking nuts and you won't wave this problem again I am replacing the alternator and went to remove the cables. I pried the plastic clip on the fat wire and removed it. I felt around behind the alternator to unscrew the skinny one and I couldn't find the wire! The screw was still in and the metal tip of the wire was still attatched, but the wire..
Remove the plastic plug on the end of the wire harness that connects to the regulator on top or nearby the alternator. The plug has four colored wires: blue, red, brown and black. Step 2. Cut a 2-inch strip of thin wire using a knife. Wire used to connect speakers, or a low voltage light is suitable. Remove ¼ inch of the plastic coating off. Very high current draw. We had a work vehicle with an extra battery and the positive wiring was cable tied above the turbocharger, the wire dropped onto the turbo and melted the insulation earthing it leading to lots of smoke, erratic engine and g..
The alternator has a good ground, the grounding wires from the body to the engine block ground out. However, the wire that connects to the top of the alternator (the one that connects via the nut) showed a high level of resistance between the mounting end and the positive pole of the battery when I put the multimeter on Ohm mode The regulator turns the alternator field current on/off to keep the alternator output voltage at 14.5 volts (+/-) depending on the battery's state of charge. To insure the regulator's case is grounded, I put the engine's ground wire under one of the regulator mounting bolts. Just my opinion of course. BOB RENTON wire depending on what the regulator reports to PCM. Throughout the years Ford has changed the acronyms on the system, but relatively the definitions are the same. There are four wires going into this alternator. First is the heavy gauge wire that is attached to the main post of the alternator that goes right to the battery. The remaining wires.
Anyways, this wire got hot and was melted in various places. Fortunately I think I can save the rest of the wires and feed a new wire in from the starter to the alternator block. The question I am trying to figure out is why this happened. I did not find any place where it shorted to the car or ground, but it is kind of hard to see 2004 Alternator/Wiring issues. Have a 2004 Sebring. Was having problems starting so replaced the battery. I checked and confirmed the alternator was charging when running and it was. The starter was starting to go as well so I also replaced that as well. When replacing the starter I accidentally touched the power cable at the starter to ground. A whole new wire would be best though. Also replace the boot cover, it is important. If you work on this yourself be sure to disconnect the ground lead to the battery before working on it as that wire is hot to the battery. There may also be internal damage to the connection inside the alternator and that should at least be inspected Above: Wiring at the alternator was really simple with only a power stud (bottom) and a ground stud (top) needing to be connected. The stock V-belt was retained. The stock V-belt was retained. Proper grounding is vitally important in any electrical system and while the alternator should theoretically ground itself through the brackets and. . then i noticed the rubber that protects the outside of the wire had been melted. so i disconnected both batteries to undo that wire and then the nut and top half of the screw broke off, i guess from the extreme heat. but the screw.
Replaced the alternator and battery and then having the ground wire is now and all good other than it is now throwing a P0700 code. I have a reader. And i am not able to go over 35 miles per hour and it runs at 3000 RPMs will not shift into second gear. The P0700 refers to a Transmission Control System Malfunction 18 Answers. Re: 2004 jetta 1.8T . The wire that comes from the... The could be your alternator, over charching, touching a ground, the wire needs to be replece if is melted. the auto parts can to test the alternator if you remove it from you car. Posted on Aug 10, 2010 If an alternator has paint or clear-coat on the mounting surfaces, it may not be grounded and will not charge. CORRECT WIRE SIZE IS CRITICAL: It is very important to use the correct wire size to connect the alternator to the battery. A wire size too small can allow the wire to overheat, melt the insulation and cause a fire or worse Now it was time to address the wiring. Since our 60-amp alternator could potentially melt the OEM 12-gauge alternator wiring, we made up a new main charging wire using 10-gauge wire along with a 14-gauge fusible link. As a rule of thumb, a fusible link should be four gauge numbers smaller than the wiring it is protecting
Chrysler decided to use the same style of alternator on all of their vehicles from 1961, when they first began using alternators, until 1987. This was the year when the last few models phased out Chrysler-style alternators in favor of internally regulated Nippon-Denso units, which they had been using on their Mitsubishi-influenced models, or 90-amp Bosch, which they began using in the earlier. But the wiring going to and from the old generator and external regulator are probably not much different than my car. First the alternator. There are three wires involved. One is a thick wire (8 AWG) that runs from the post on the alternator to the post on the starter. This wire will overlap a thicker wire which goes to the POS post on the. Figured it out fixed it immediately, new eyelets (back of alternator and the positive box, as well as a new) Problem solved. Well it died again last week, I thought the wire had just come out of the little push on eyelet thing, I was wrong. The wire at the back of the alternator melted off the eyelet, and the wire was scorched, even under the boot The field wire can be disconnected at both the regulator and the generator, as this one would no longer be needed. But the solinoid's wire must go back to the center terminal on the regulator for the rest of the system to be intact. That third wire at the generator is most likely a ground wire. This can also be left disconnected 3. Upgrade your alternator wiring. Run a wire, preferably with an inline fuse in it, from the stud on the back of the alternator directly to the passenger side battery. Augment this with a wire from one of the alternator mounting bolts to the vehicle frame. Doing so will allow the maximum current from the alternator to reach the batteries
Grounding issues wouldn't melt the alternator. Don't expect higher voltage than 13.8V with running engine. This is a regulated voltage, if it alters more than ~0.5V something is wrong. Disconnect the alternator wiring. Leave alternator on the engine. Connect the +ve charger lead to the alternator power output cable. Connect -ve to car chassis Got it in my shop and come to find out the positive power feed from the back of the alternator melted completely off the battery post, as well as the positive wire that goes to the grid heater relays. Replaced the alternator this summer, lights would dim and radio would cut out a few times after first start up, still happens 21,259 Posts. #4 · Dec 1, 2014. A loose connection can do it. A bad battery can do it. A scraped up wire can do it. All you can do is replace the cable to the battery, and possibly the negative battery cable + terminal since that one is giving you problems removing the terminal. Have the alternator tested, and replace the battery I removed the louver from below the dash and found that a three-pin connector with two wires leading to the alternator and one to the ignitor was melted and smoking. I removed the connector, revealing the wires and spade connectors and it looks like the wire that is getting hot is the hot wire from the alternator Dec 23, 2017. So car sat for a few months and battery was. Through a jump pack on it and went in the garage, and the hot wire that goes from the battery to the alternator caught on fire. I'm thinking the hot wire must have somehow crossed with ground due to a break in the rubber part that surrounds the wire somewhere, but I can't tell if this.
• B is the alternator output wire that supplies current to the battery. • IG is the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly. • S is used by the regulator to monitor charging voltage at the battery. • L is the wire the regulator uses to ground the charge warning lamp. Charging System Circui My Brown wire at the 3 wire connector at the regulator is melted and corroded. The Brown wire at the 3 wire connector at the Alternator is no longer there..frayed and missing up to the harness wrap. The only other Alternator connector is the large Output wire with ring terminal, I did not notice an external ground to the engine The ground current to/from the alternator case must flow through Wire #4, across the (-) terminal of the battery, then through Wire #5 to reach a chassis ground. On a stock 4Runner, the positive battery terminal will have two wires connected to it, these wires are shown below and labeled according to the initial diagram at the top of the write-up The upgraded alternator wire and chassis ground wire will benefit the winch because it will help the alternator re-charge the battery. Audio systems are wired directly to the battery too, as are compressors. In fact, everything is pretty much wired directly to the battery unless it plugs into the cigarette lighter Alternator Wiring Kit 555 -10510 100 Amps 8 gauge 150 Amps 6 gauge 200 Amps 4 gauge It is very important to use the correct wire size to connect the alternator to the battery. A wire size too small can allow the wire to overheat, melt the insulation and cause a fire or worse. Dependin g upon the maximum output of the alternator, use the.
Posts: 3,879. The alternator itself can't lose ground, since the case is bolted to the engine at more than one point. What can happen is an interruption of the charging circuit, either due to a bad battery ground or a loose B+ connection. When the charging circuit is opened suddenly, a huge inductive surge can form in the stator, causing a. The charging voltage should be between 13.9v to 14.4v. Also the voltage at the battery and the voltage at the alternator should be within 0.5v of each other. If the voltage at the battery and alternator don't match. For example the battery reads 12v and alternator reads 14v. This means that there is an issue with wiring Sometimes those blow when you short out a wire from the battery to the ground on the car *like when an alternators live wire hits ground on the car. On a 1981 Toyota pickup, im unsure of where it is located, but sometimes they are located in the fuse box, as a big fuse usually a 100 amp or 80amp fuse.
So the idea is to mesh the entire engine bay grounding setup directly into the battery and minimize the dependence on the chassis for grounding. Running a fatter wire to the alternator and possibly the starter are to be continued. Materials: Pico 0809PT 3-Way Top Post Battery Terminal ; 1/0 AWG OFC Wire. Sky High Car Audio Brand. 4 AWG OFC Wire W-T ground wire mod - Simplified. (5 reviews) By Mopar1973Man. July 20, 2018. Ok I know several members have done this mod and said it was easy. It sure is easy. It takes about 2 hours from start to finish to complete this project. You'll need the terminal lugs and the metric bolt that @W-T specifies in his article If it is the 2 wires on the Voltmeter then 1 wire (red) would got to a power source, such as the starter, alt.lead, or battery. The other wire (black) would go to a good ground source ie; engine block or frame 7) When the wire was close to the alternator, it trimmed it to length then crimped/soldered a large ring terminal to it for the final connection to the alternator. 8) Once everything was connected, I reconnected the wiring to the ground terminal of the battery and its been running fine since. That's what I did to resolve the issue 14. Disconnect the engine ground strap at both ends. Using the wire brush or scotch brite, clean both the engine block and the chassis as you did for the first ground strap. 15. Line up the lugs on both the OEM ground strap and your new ground cable, and use cable ties to secure them to each other
Follow these general guidelines for wiring inverters and chargers: The ground wire to the DC grounding system should not be smaller than one size below the wire size required for the DC current carrying conductors. The DC overcurrent protection device should not be sized at more than 150 percent of the capacity of the grounding conductor. 9 Connect B+ battery cable to alternator. Turn on battery switch. Install a jumper from pin F in harness plug to B+ terminal on alternator. Note: the alternator charge wire routes direct to the battery and not through any switch connection, the alternator will not operate correctly if not connected direct to battery or directly through the ammeter Melted plugs/wires causing grounds. To test this, remove your light-bulbs from the headlights (fog-lights if they are on your truck also). Now pull the big square plug that powers your cab (should be in front of the driver, beside your master-cylinder). Hook up a continuity-tester to any combo of your high/low/gound wires where the bulbs plug-in Joined Oct 6, 2013. ·. 773 Posts. #3 · Oct 7, 2015. Youve got 3 fusible links related to the alternator.1 on the black/orange wire,1 on the yellow wire & 1 on the yellow wire close to the starter relay (mounted on the fender apron)You can check continuity on those wires to make sure the links arent melted.Touch a multimeter probe on each side. With the ignition in the ON position (engine not running) and your voltmeter's ground wire connected to the regulator's ground, check for voltage on the RED (sensing), BLUE (field) and BROWN (ignition) wires in the regulator plug. The volt-meter should read: Red Wire Brown Wire Blue Wire Expected Reading 12 V* 12 V 7 - 12 V Your Reading 3
A fuse is a device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit. The melting of the element occurs when the electrical current exceeds a specified level for a specified time. remove the plug from the alternator and ground the sense wire (wire connected to the bulb). If the light comes on, the wiring is okay but the. battery and alternator wiring problem - 99 Toyota camery : the wire between new alternator and battery gets hot, melted casing, and the fuse didn't bl.. Ditto for alternator which can only put out 60 amps in your case, but can melt any conductor in a car with ease in no time if not protected should a dead shot to ground occur. This is how your house wiring is designed where power from pole is distributed via a service panel which contains fuses or with more modern installations circuit brakers.